NMMC Climb Section - Policies & Practices
EFFECTIVE DATE: MAY 11, 2022
As per New Mexico Mountain Club Bylaws, the Board of Directors approve these policies and practices on 05/11/2022, and they apply to all activities organized by the Climb Section.
We urge every Member to read this document in its entirety, so we all have a common understanding of the Climb Section’s purpose, practices and policies. This collective understanding will help ensure our events run safely, smoothly and efficiently.
By participating in Climb Section events, you agree to adhere to the policies and practices outlined in this document to ensure a safe climbing environment for all Members.
GENERAL
ABOUT THE NEW MEXICO MOUNTAIN CLUB
The New Mexico Mountain Club (NMMC) was founded in January 1952 by a small group of Albuquerque outdoor enthusiasts eager to get outside to explore with other like-minded individuals. A Club with annual dues paying Members was formed and the first hike posted was a summit of Sierra Ladrones and Ladrón Peak (9,186 ft). Beginning with that outing, Members have volunteered to become Club Leaders and have led many decades of hiking, climbing, backpacking, snowshoeing, scrambling and car camping adventures in New Mexico and beyond. Throughout this long history, the enthusiasm and commitment of our membership has built an organization that will continue long after most of us have moved on. We are thrilled to have you as a Member of the New Mexico Mountain Club and look forward to meeting you on one of our many adventures! The Mountain Club is led by elected Officers and Board Members who take on Chair level responsibilities. The Club’s membership term is January 1st - December 31st of each year and annual dues are $10, paid by all Members on January 1st.
Website: www.nmmountainclub.org
Email: nmmtclub@gmail.com
ABOUT THE CLIMB SECTION
The Climb Section is a subsection of the larger New Mexico Mountain Club and is organized by volunteer Members who are passionate about the sport of climbing. We’re composed of a diverse group of people with different levels of experience and skills who have come together through a shared love of climbing. In addition to paying annual Mountain Club dues, Climb Section Members pay an annual $20 equipment fee to cover the costs of communal gear (ropes, anchor materials, etc) and general Climb Section expenses.
The Climb Section’s goals are to get Members climbing outside, to learn and practice climbing skills, to promote and encourage climbing best practices, to mentor and encourage individual growth, and to actively participate in the larger climbing community. Members are responsible for taking an active role in learning the skills needed to keep themselves and their partners safe while climbing. Once they’ve reached a certain level of confidence and competence, Members are encouraged to step into a leadership role to continue the long history that makes the Climb Section what it is today.
Climb Section webpage: www.nmmountainclub.org/climbing
Climb Section email: nmmcclimbing@gmail.com
LIABILITY, RISK AND DANGER
Climbing is dangerous.
It is universally accepted that climbing is a dangerous activity and poses a risk of bodily harm, injury, permanent disability or death to those choosing to participate in the sport.
As a willing participant in climbing activities, you choose to accept this risk, assume the liability and accept all consequences related to your climbing pursuits. It is a given that during climbing activities, your personal safety cannot be delegated to another person and you are responsible for keeping yourself safe and making decisions that protect your safety and well-being.
By participating in events organized by the NMMC Climb Section, you are making the decision to accept the implicit danger and risk involved in our climbing related activities. We work to promote good climbing practices and aim to minimize the risk associated with our activities; however, we can never eliminate the inherent risk that comes with climbing.
All Climb Section Members must sign a Release of Liability Waiver PRIOR to participating in every Climb Section event. Your Trip Leader will have a paper version of the Waiver and it should be signed when arriving at an outing.
CLIMB SECTION LEADERSHIP
The Climb Section Chair holds an elected position on the New Mexico Mountain Club’s board.
The Chair and Co-Chair administer the Climb Section and they are generally selected by the Climb Section’s Leaders. To ensure continuity, the goal is to have the Co-Chair nominated for election to the Chair position at the end of a term.
As per the Club’s bylaws, the Chair convenes a Steering Committee. The Committee may be composed of any Climb Section Members the Chair chooses, however good practice is to include the Co-Chair, the immediate past Chair and a diverse array of active Leaders and Members. Additionally, the President of the NM Mountain Club is an ex-officio member of the Steering Committee.
The Chair is tasked with attending NMMC Board Meetings, administering the Climb Section’s budget, purchasing new gear, conducting and maintaining an inventory of existing gear, managing the gear shed, coordinating with existing Leaders, assisting new Leaders to develop their leadership skills, and handling all matters that arise related to the Climb Section.
Events hosted by the Climb Section are posted by Members who volunteer to be Trip Leaders. This Club would not exist without these Members stepping into leadership roles and we strongly encourage Members to make events as uncomplicated and pain free as possible to ensure they continue to give their time and post events. Thank you, Trip Leaders for all that you do to keep this Club active!
ABOUT CLIMB SECTION TRIP LEADERS
Our Trip Leaders are Members who have stepped up to lead climbing and skill events. Though the Climb Section has developed an internal skill sign off process to designate Trip Leaders to coordinate climbing and skill related outings, our Trip Leaders are self-taught volunteers who choose to share their knowledge; they are NOT professionally trained instructors or guides. By choosing to participate in an event organized by one of our Trip Leaders, you are accepting that the Trip Leader is a self-taught volunteer and you are making the decision to accept the risks, both known and unknown, related to climbing activities and you assume full liability related to your participation in the event.
In general, Trip Leaders run events as they see fit and make the final decisions on everything related to their event. For each event, a detailed description of the event is posted that outlines who should attend and what you need to bring. Additionally, the posting will detail where to meet the group, at what time the event begins, at what time the event ends and any other limits or information that needs to be communicated to participants. Please read the event’s description carefully to ensure the event is a good match for you.
ABOUT CLIMB SECTION EVENTS
Climb Section Trip Leaders posts all events via our Meetup.com group (meetup.com/nmmcclimbing). Climbing and skill events are posted for all levels of ability and experience. Most events are half- or one-day outings with occasional weekend and week-long events. Unless agreed upon by the Trip Leader prior to the event, Members should expect to arrive on time at the meeting location, to carry Club gear to/from the climbing wall, hike in and out with the group and bring all required gear as detailed in the event’s description. Trip Leaders will generally post a meeting spot convenient for carpooling or will instruct everyone to meet at the trailhead. If you have any questions about an event, the necessary skills, the location or the required gear, please contact the event’s Trip Leader directly via Meetup.com private messages or a comment on the event page.
MEMBERS
Members of the Climb Section should read this Policies and Procedures document in full and any questions should be directed to the Climb Section chair (nmmcclimbing@gmail.com).
SAFETY
In the Climb Section, safety is our foremost concern and we strive to integrate best climbing practices into our decisions and activities. Our policies and standardized practices have been adopted to focus all Members on the importance of safety and to encourage a culture of open communication and safety. Because of the risk that comes with climbing activities, all Members are obligated to pay attention to, focus on, and commit to safe practices. Commit yourself to making thoughtful decisions, learning and practicing your climbing skills, and engaging in good communication with your climbing partners.
YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES
By making the decision to participate in climbing activities organized by the Climb Section, you accept that you are responsible for your personal safety. You are responsible for learning climbing systems, doing safety checks and questioning things other people do if something seems wrong, even when climbing with more experienced climbers.
As a Member in the Climb Section, you are expected to do the following:
Follow Club policies and procedures while participating in events.
Have adequate basic skills for the event and the ability to participate safely in our climbing activities.
Be open to suggestions, guidance and direction from Trip Leaders.
Conduct safety checks of harnesses, knots, anchors, belay devices, ropes and any other climbing system or setup you are working with.
Ask questions and speak up with concerns regarding safety, skills and techniques. If you are uncertain about something, ASK. If you have a safety concern, ASK.
Disengage from any activity if you are not confident you can participate in a safe manner. The consequences of making mistakes in a climbing environment can be a matter of life or death. Don’t get ahead of your skills. Take the time to learn climbing systems and best practices to keep you and your partners safe.
REPORTING CONCERNS
Concerns related to activities within the Climb Section should be reported to the Chair. Additionally, concerns may be reported to a Steering Committee or Board Member.
UNSAFE BEHAVIORS
If deemed necessary by the Chair, you may be required to complete a third-party certification before participating in specific climbing related skills e.g., a lead climbing class. Exhibiting unsafe skills, practices or behaviors while participating in Climb Section outings is grounds for removal from the Climb Section.
DRUGS AND ALCOHOL
Drug and alcohol use while actively participating in climbing specific activities in the Climb Section is expressly forbidden. Climbing specific activities include, but are not limited to, scrambling, hiking, climbing, belaying and rappelling. Any Member determined to be under the influence of drugs (including marijuana) or alcohol while participating in climbing specific activities will be removed from the Climb Section.
HARASSMENT OR INAPPROPRIATE BEHAVIOR
Harassment or any inappropriate behavior exhibited by one Member towards another Member, or others climbing at the same area, is grounds for removal from the Climb Section.
DENIAL OR REMOVAL FROM AN EVENT
A Trip Leader may deny a Member or Guest from participating in an event, particularly if a Trip Leader is unable to confirm that a Member or Guest has necessary skills and abilities for a given event. Group composition may also be taken into consideration, as the Trip Leader may require a certain percentage of attendees to have a certain skill set and experience level e.g., lead belaying, lead climbing, anchor setup & cleaning.
RSVPING FOR EVENTS
Members should always read the full description of an event to assess if your skills match the Trip Leader’s expectations for participants. If you are unsure the event is a good match for you, contact the Trip Leader to discuss your concerns. If you do not meet the minimum skills to participate in an event, do not sign up. If you RSVP for an event, the Trip Leader is counting on your attendance and the group will be waiting for you at the designated meeting spot. Make sure you are clear where the group is meeting, at what time you are expected to arrive and at what time the event ends. Trip Leaders expect you to be punctual and to assist with carrying Club gear to and from the climbing wall.
NO-SHOWS AND LAST MINUTES CANCELLATIONS
For most events, Trip Leaders limit the number of attendees to keep things manageable. By RSVPing for the event, you are taking a spot and committing to attending. Canceling at the last minute or not showing up is frowned upon by Trip Leaders and Members habitually cancelling or not showing up may be moved to the waitlist to allow other Members to attend.
DRIVER REIMBURSEMENT
Members often meet to carpool to a climbing area. If you are a passenger in a vehicle, be prepared to pay the driver to cover their costs. The suggested amount is $0.15 per mile.
GUESTS
Members are welcome to bring a guest to outings appropriate to the guest’s skills with advance approval from the Trip Leader hosting the outing. The following policies apply to guests:
Guests must complete our Guest Liability Release Form prior to attending each trip.
Guests must have appropriate climbing gear, including a helmet.
Members bringing a guest are responsible for supervising the guest's activities and ensuring the guest has the proper knowledge, equipment and skills.
Guests who attend two (2) outings should join the Climb Section.
MINORS
Minors may participate in activities only when accompanied by a parent or guardian and with explicit advance permission from the Trip Leader. The parent or guardian must complete a Guest Liability Release form for the minor.
DOGS
Well-behaved dogs are welcome on outings with prior approval from the event’s Trip Leader. Please contact the Trip Leader directly to clarify their preference if it’s not detailed in the event description. Make sure to bring a sturdy leash, and your dog must be tethered while you are climbing or belaying. Your dog should not be left to wander and disrupt fellow event participants or other climbing parties.
SKILL SIGN-OFFS
TRIP LEADER SIGN-OFFS
Our Club continues to thrive as individuals step up to become mentors and leaders. Toward that goal, the Climb Section encourages Members to advance their climbing knowledge by completing the Sport, Single-Pitch or Multi-Pitch Trip Leaders qualification process. This process is self-directed and involves connecting with current and active Club Leaders to complete skill sign-offs. The following forms detail our current sign-off process for each level:
At the most basic level, a Trip Leader takes the lead on posting climbing and skill events and the Club allows each Trip Leader the latitude to make decisions specific to how their events are managed. The Trip Leader writes up the event details and posts it to Meetup.com. They designate the group size, a meeting location, a start time and an end time. At the event, Trip Leaders:
gather the participants for introductions, identifying new Members and beginning climbers;
work to understand the participants’ climbing and belaying skills, assigning backup belay duties as needed for newer belayers;
makes sure everyone wears their helmet;
emphasize the need for belayer/climber safety checks before climbing;
encourage the use of a loud voice and first names when communicating commands;
orient participants to the climbing wall and its routes and;
answer questions as they come up.
Additionally, Trip Leaders:
set up ropes as needed;
double-check that anchors are safely set and cleaned;
help people with climbing goals and the development of climbing skills;
keep an eye on the group and intervene if necessary, to maintain an environment focused on safety; and
make sure Club ropes, anchors, tarps, quick draws, etc. are retrieved and returned to the gear shed.
Trip Leaders are the only Members permitted to check out equipment from the Climb Section’s gear shed.
CLIMBING
LIMITS SET BY TRIP LEADERS
Trip Leaders are permitted to set limits as they deem necessary to ensure safe climbing for everyone during their events. If a Trip Leader doesn’t know or trust your skills yet, they may set limits on your belaying or climbing until they are comfortable that you can climb and belay safely. Please respect their decisions and work to improve your skills outside of Club events. The end goal for any limits set at an event is safety. Most Trip Leaders are willing to assist with skill development at climbing specific events.
YOUR PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
While participating in Climb Section events, you will use equipment that you purchase and maintain, including (but not limited to) personal ropes, climbing helmet, climbing harness, belay device, climbing cord, quickdraws, carabiners, slings, climbing shoes and traditional climbing equipment. You are responsible for ensuring your personal climbing equipment is maintained and in a condition that meets the manufacturer’s specifications. You are expected to inspect your personal equipment regularly to ensure it is safe to use. If your equipment shows signs of wear or damage, or no longer meets the manufacturer’s specifications, it should be replaced. If there are any safety concerns related to your personal equipment, you may be asked to replace it by the Climb Section Chair or a Trip Leader in order to attend events.
Required personal equipment:
Backpack, ideally with 30-50 liters of capacity
Climbing specific harness (must be modern gear)
Climbing specific helmet (must be modern gear)
Belay device with locking carabiner (assisted-braking is preferred* and must be modern gear)
Tubular style belay device with locking carabiner for rappelling (must be modern gear).
Climbing shoes
Closed-toe shoes
*Climbers have the right to refuse to be belayed with a non-assisted braking device and that choice will be respected.
Suggested personal equipment:
Personal Anchor System (PAS) with 2 small locking carabiners
12 quickdraws (if sport lead climbing)
4 feet of 6mm climbing cord with locking carabiner (used for prusik when rappelling)
20 feet of 7mm climbing cord with locking carabiner (used for anchors and self-rescue)
A variety of locking and non-locking carabiners
Belay gloves
Chalk bag
INSPECTING EQUIPMENT
Members should inspect ALL climbing equipment prior to use, including both personal and equipment provided by the Climb Section. Any concerns related to equipment should be immediately discussed with the Trip Leader and equipment should not be used for climbing activities if there is any question about its integrity or safety. Any equipment related concerns should be reported to the Climb Section Chair.
HELMETS
Helmets are required to be worn during outings when rope climbing, belaying, rappelling, standing in an area of potential rockfall from above or standing in an area with high potential for falling. Helmets should be properly adjusted (i.e., should not slide backwards or tilt to the side after tightened). If needed, request assistance from the Trip Leader to correctly adjust your helmet. Helmets are optional when participating in bouldering events.
FOOTWEAR
Sturdy, closed-toed shoes are required to be worn during climbing activities including, but not limited to, climbing, belaying, rappelling, working at an anchor, and technical 3rd or 4th class approaches and descents. When belaying, your shoes must not easily slip off your feet. This is to ensure stability on unstable terrain and to protect your toes/feet if your climber takes a forceful fall.
CLIMB SECTION ROPES
The Climb Section provides 60 meter ropes for most outings. NOTE: a 60m rope is 196 feet long. When possible, the ropes should be flaked onto a tarp to maintain cleanliness and extend the life of the ropes. Avoid stepping on the ropes as this pushes dirt into the fibers.
It is every Member’s responsibility to inspect the ropes for damage during the flaking process BEFORE climbing begins. During the inspection, look for visible damage to the rope’s sheath, sheath slippage, sponginess, stiffness, deformations, burns or anything else that looks or feels abnormal. Any concerns related to the integrity of a rope must be reported to the Trip Leader immediately. Any rope deemed suspect should be kept in the Trip Leader’s personal possession and reported to the Climb Section Chair. The rope should not be returned to the gear shed unless it has been determined safe for climbing use by the Climb Section Chair.
CLIMB SECTION ANCHOR EQUIPMENT
The Climb Section provides anchor equipment (slings with two locking carabiners), most often used for building sport climbing anchors. Each nylon anchor sling is either 60 cm (single length) or 120 cm (double length) and is equipped with two locking carabiners; the smaller carabiner is attached to the bolt and the carabiner with the steel inserts is attached to the rope. All Members are strongly encouraged to check the condition of the anchor each time they reach the top of a route and to report any concerns to the Trip Leader.
It is every Member’s responsibility to inspect the anchor equipment for damage BEFORE climbing begins. During inspection, look for visible damage in the slings including fraying, tears, melted spots, discoloration or anything else that looks or feels abnormal. With the carabiners, look and feel for cracks, burrs and wear grooves. Also, be sure to check the action of the carabiner’s gate and make sure the screw correctly locks. Any concerns related to the integrity of the anchor equipment must be reported to the Trip Leader. Any anchor equipment deemed suspect should be kept in the Trip Leader’s personal possession and reported to the Climb Section Chair. The anchor equipment should not be returned to the gear shed until it has been determined safe for climbing use by the Climb Section Chair.
CLIMBER/BELAYER SAFETY CHECKS
While climbing, you and your climbing partners must visually inspect each other’s systems before starting a climb. These checks must be done before every climb and you’ll do them repeatedly an outing. These checks are vital for preventing mistakes and cannot be skipped. Please don’t get complacent with safety checks.
Make sure both belayer and climber are wearing properly fastened and adjusted helmets.
Make sure both harnesses are worn and buckled correctly. Many modern harnesses use quick adjust buckles which work differently than a double-back buckle; be familiar with both styles of buckles. The harness should be situated above the pelvis and adequately tightened so it cannot slip over the hips. Ensure there are no twists in the waist belt, belay loop or leg loops.
The belayer should confirm that the climber’s knot is correctly threaded through both tie-in points, that the Figure-8 is correctly tied by counting the rope strands to either 8 or 10, that the Figure-8 is dressed properly (no crossed strands) and that at least a fist length of tail is left on the Figure-8 knot. If possible, use an Overhand finish knot tied close to the Figure-8 to dress excess tail.
The climber should confirm that the rope is correctly threaded through the belayer’s device with the climber’s side on top (close to the heart), that the carabiner properly captures the rope or belay device and is attached to the belay loop, that the belay carabiner is locked, that the brake hand is in the down position using the dominant hand and, when top roping, that the rope attached to the belay device goes up to the anchor and back down to the climber. There are many different types of belay devices. If you are unfamiliar with your partner's belay device, ask them to demonstrate how the device works or request the assistance from the Trip Leader if needed.
In order to “close the system”, ensure that a barrel (or other large knot) is tied into the belayer’s end of the rope.
The climber/belayer safety checks should never be rushed. To ensure a safe environment for everyone, be thorough and don’t pressure a partner to hurry.
CLIMBER/BELAYER COMMUNICATION
To ensure clear and consistent communication between climbers and belayers, the following standard commands are used when participating in Climb Section events. Make sure you are yelling in the direction of the climbing or belaying in a loud clear voice. Comprehension of climbing commands is crucial and can be a matter of life or death.
Climber: “ON BELAY?” (Are you ready to belay me?)Belayer: “BELAY ON.” (Yes, slack is out and I’m ready to belay.)
Climber: “CLIMBING.” (I’m going to climb now.)Belayer: “CLIMB ON.” (I’m ready for you to climb.)
Climber: “SLACK!” (Pay out a little rope.)Belayer: (Pay out rope and pause to see if the climber asks again. No verbal reply needed.)
Climber: “UP ROPE.” (Pull in rope slack.)Belayer: (Pull in slack and pause to see if the climber asks again. No verbal reply needed.)
Climber: “TAKE.” (I want to rest by hanging on the rope now.)Belayer: (Remove all slack and hold tight.) “GOT YOU.”
Climber: “LOWER.” (I’ve fully weighted the rope and am ready to lower.)Belayer: (Position both hands on the brake strand.) “LOWERING.”
Climber: “OFF BELAY” (I’m standing securely on the ground or securely attached to the anchor.)Belayer: “BELAY OFF.” (My belay device is not connected to the rope and I’ve stopped belaying you.)
Rappeler: “ON RAPPEL.” (The rope is being used for a rappel).Rappeler: “OFF RAPPEL.” ( The rope is clear from the rappel device).
Rappeler: “FIREMAN’S BELAY PLEASE.” (I need a rappel backup.)Belayer: “FIREMAN’S ON.” (I am holding both ends of the rope and am prepared to brake by pulling tightly on the rope.)
Climber: "WATCH ME!" (This means a climber needs your complete attention, NOW.)
Climber: "FALLING!" (Means exactly what you think it means.)
"ROCK! ROCK! ROCK!" (This is used for everything that falls. When you hear this, pull your shoulders in and look straight ahead so your helmet can protect you. Do not look up!)
“ROPE, ROPE, ROPE!” (A rope is being thrown or pulled. When you hear this, pull your shoulders in and look straight ahead so your helmet can protect you. Do not look up!)
“REPEAT.” (A command needs to be repeated loudly.)
OTHER IMPORTANT COMMUNICATION PRACTICES
Additional communication practices we want consistently used include:
Use your partner’s first name BEFORE every command: “JENNIFER, TAKE!”
Minimize commands to one word (when possible): “SUSAN, GOT!”
Don’t over communicate and avoid non-essential talking when climbing. It may lead to miscommunication and is unsafe.
Yell clearly and loudly in your partner’s direction. Noise from wind and traffic will make it more difficult to hear each other so you may have to yell louder.
Conversations on the ground are distracting to both belayers and climbers. Climbers and belayers hearing each other is always the priority, so we encourage “inside voice” while on the ground and “outside voice” while climbing. Avoid talking to, and thus distracting, a belayer. Move away from the wall to have conversations and leave the belayer to do their job.
If needed, anyone should feel comfortable saying “QUIET PLEASE” in order to hear better or help others hear better.
If a climber says “WATCH ME”, they need your full attention as a belayer. Stop any conversation and focus 100% on your climber.
BELAYING
Belaying is an enormous responsibility and one of the most important parts of climbing. You literally have your climber’s life in your hands! The Trip Leader has full discretion as to who can belay during events. If you have recently joined the Climb Section and/or do not have recent/regular belaying experience, please check in with the Trip Leader before belaying.
When accepting the responsibility of belaying, you are obligated to give all your focus to your climber by proactively avoiding distraction from others on the ground.
The belayer must be wearing a helmet and closed toe shoes.
You must be watching and listening to your climber closely and continuously.
When your climber pauses or takes (temporarily hanging on the rope), you should pause in the brake position with both hands on the brake strand.
Keep long hair, clothing and dangly stuff away from your belay device. They can be sucked into the device during a fall.
Actively attend to the rope prior to feeding it through your device to keep it organized and tangle-free.
Keep both hands on the rope and be prepared to catch a fall.
Your brake hand must never let go of the rope and under no circumstances should you lose control of your belay and drop your climber. That also means you shouldn’t switch your brake hand back and forth as you belay.
Work to ensure there is never too much slack in the rope or that the rope is never too tight for the climber. Managing rope tension is a skill practiced and learned over time.
BELAY LOCATION AND STANCE
Select a belay location that is stable and as flat as possible where you can comfortably stand while belaying. Avoid sitting or lying down while belaying and always be standing when lead belaying.
Clear the area of shoes, backpacks and anything else that might get in your way while belaying.
Flake the rope on the ground (preferably on a tarp) close to you and make sure the rope is positioned below your belay device.
If there’s any potential for rock fall, position the belay in a spot that protects the belayer.
Position yourself close to the wall, roughly one arm’s length away from the wall when lead belaying, but avoid being directly underneath the climber’s line of fall until the climber is past the third bolt.
The belayer needs to avoid overhanging rock features above them which they might hit if pulled upwards. Specifically, don’t stand in a spot that is undercut or cave-like.
Stand with your non-dominant foot forward (the foot opposite your brake hand) with knees slightly bent so you feel relaxed.
Ensure you are always positioned so that if your climber falls, you are pulled only upwards, never yanked into the wall and then pulled upwards. Stand close to the wall.
BELAY DEVICES
Assisted-braking belay devices (e.g., Gri-Gri, Megajul, Smart, Pilot, Clickup, etc.) are strongly preferred on Climb Section outings and must be used according to the manufacturer’s specifications. You must be thoroughly familiar with and adept at belaying with your device. If you cannot belay confidently, refrain from belaying or request a backup from the Trip Leader. Some climbers may choose to not be belayed with a device that is not an assisted-braking device.
PBUS BELAY METHOD
The modern PBUS Belay Method is the only method of top rope belaying allowed during Climb Section events. This method is universally accepted as a simple and safe way to top rope belay and must be used with all styles of belay devices.
The PBUS Belay Method consists of a four-part process which is best learned with the acronym PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide).
PULL: With your guide hand (non-dominant hand), pull downward on the climber’s side of the rope above your belay device, while also lifting your brake hand (dominant hand) up and out to take in slack.
BRAKE: When the guide hand nears the belay device, your brake hand immediately flips the rope down into the brake position.
UNDER: Move the guide hand to the brake side of the rope and place it underneath your brake hand. Grip the rope firmly.
SLIDE: Slightly loosen the grip of your brake hand and slide your brake hand up approximately six inches below the belay device. Tighten your grip firmly on the rope.
REPEAT: Move your guide hand back to the rope above the belay device and repeat.
LEAD BELAYING
The big difference between lead and top rope belaying is you spend most of your time paying out rope slack, rather than taking it in. Additionally, you need to spot your climber between the ground and the first bolt. You need to manage the rope to ensure there isn’t too much or too little slack as your climber is clipping and you need to be prepared to catch a forceful leader fall.
If your climber is not too far above the last clipped bolt and falls, attempt to provide a “soft catch” by slightly jumping into the air just as the rope becomes taut on the last clipped bolt. The rising belayer adds slack to the system and makes the fall gentler for the climber. There are a few exceptions to giving soft catches; for instance, if there is a risk of hitting the ground/ledge, when on slab or when there is already considerable slack in the system. If possible, pull slack through your belay device or fall backwards to take out slack quickly.
If you are pulled upwards during a fall, maintain firm control in the braking position with both hands, keep your knees bent and feet forward in order to brace yourself against the wall. Use your legs to regain your balance or to stop yourself from slamming into the wall.
If your lead climber weighs significantly more than a belayer, the use of an Edelrid Ohm (a quickdraw-like assisted-braking resistor device that attaches to the first bolt) is strongly advised. Without an Edelrid Ohm device, there is the potential for a heavier lead climber to pull their belayer into the first bolt during a fall causing injury and potentially causing the belayer to lose control of the belay.
We strongly recommend taking a lead climbing/belaying class at one of the climbing gyms to hone your skills.
PROTECTING CLIMBER NEAR GROUND
When top rope belaying, remove as much slack and stretch out of the rope as possible before the climber leaves the ground (you may need to jump up and sit on the rope multiple times to achieve this). When the climber first starts off the ground or a ledge, keep the top rope belay tight so the climber is less likely to hit the ground or ledge.
When lead climbing, using a clip stick to clip the first or second bolt is an option to protect the climber from hitting the ground if they fall.
SPOTTING
A lead belayer should spot their climber between the ground and the first bolt. When spotting a climber, the goal is to protect a climber’s head and neck from impacting the ground if they fall before clipping the first bolt. To provide a spot, stand 2 to 3 steps behind the climber, with palms out and thumbs tucked in, ready to keep the climber upright. If the climber falls or jumps down, the spotter does not catch them, but instead attempts to redirect the climber's fall onto stable terrain by pushing their shoulders or back. Once the climber clips the first bolt, the spotter must transition into belay mode immediately.
RAPPELLING
When rappelling during Climb Section outings, we prefer an extended rappel using a PAS, cord or sling, with either a “third hand” (Prusik, Auto-Block or Klemheist hitch) backup connected to the belay loop or a Fireman’s Belay from below.
The “third hand” backup must be configured in such a way that it never touches your rappel device while descending. The hand moving down your “third hand” knot should always be placed above the “third hand” and the “third hand” should be pushed down with the base of your hand. Your hand should never grab, clasp or wrap around the “third hand” as a method for moving it down. Doing so stops the knot from grabbing the rope which completely defeats the purpose of using the “third hand.”
If your climber is rappelling, remain at your belay station after coming off belay to assist with the rappel. You will be responsible for confirming both ends of the rope are on the ground and you’ll provide a Fireman’s Belay if requested.
FIREMAN’S BELAY
A Fireman’s Belay is used to backup a rappel at the bottom of the rappel. If your climber is rappelling, remain at your belay station after coming off belay to assist with the rappel. You will be responsible for confirming both ends of the rope are on the ground and you’ll provide a Fireman’s Belay if requested by your climber. To provide a Fireman’s Belay, firmly grip both ends of the rope in your hands and leave a smile shaped loop of slack in the rope. As your climber rappels, keep the rope relatively slack to ensure you don’t impede their downward progress by inadvertently braking their rappel device. If the climber loses control of their rappel, you will take over by pulling tightly on both stands of the ropes. As long as you are holding the ropes tightly, the climber will not be able to descend the rope using their rappel device. To release the climber, add slack back into the ropes.
BACK-UP BELAY
Back-up belays provide an extra layer of protection when the skills of a belayer are unknown or still developing. The Trip Leader may require a back-up belay at any time to ensure the safety of the climber. The back-up belayer should be positioned slightly behind the belayer and on the same side as belayer’s brake hand. Both hands must be kept firmly on the brake strand. The rope should be slack, so as not to impede the belayer from performing the PBUS belay technique.
LOWERING A CLIMBER
When your climber has fully weighted the rope and requests to be lowered, first move into a position that is close to the wall underneath the first bolt or climber. Then follow the manufacturer's instructions for lowering with the belay device you’re using. Ultimately, your brake hand must never let go of the rope and under no circumstances should you lose control of your belay while lowering.
CLOSING THE SYSTEM
A barrel (or other large) knot should be tied in the belayer’s or rappeler’s end(s) of the rope with approximately 2+ feet of tail. The knot must be removed before the rope is cleaned from the anchor.
SETTING SPORT ANCHORS
Sport anchors should only be set by Members who have the skills and knowledge required to build sport anchors safely and correctly. If you cannot set anchors confidently, please refrain from accepting this responsibility.
CLEANING SPORT ANCHORS & LOWERING
Cleaning anchors is dangerous and is a task that should only be completed by Members who have the skills and knowledge required to clean sport anchors safely and correctly. If you cannot clean anchors confidently, please refrain from accepting this responsibility.
ROPE COILING AND LOCKDOWN
Climb Section ropes should be butterfly coiled and locked down using our preferred method, which is demonstrated in this video: https://youtu.be/NDyeBQArlKQ. Locking down ropes using this method ensures they don’t come apart as Trip Leaders and Members are moving them around.
CLEARING YOUR FIGURE 8
When you complete a climb, do not leave your figure-8 knot tied in the rope. Always clear/untie your knot. If the rope is pulled without the knot removed, the knot will get stuck in the anchor.
MISC
MOUNTAIN PROJECT APP
We strongly recommend downloading the Mountain Project phone app which will help you navigate the location and grades of climbing routes while participating in our events. The website is www.mountainproject.com.
BACKPACK ESSENTIALS
In addition to your personal climbing gear, participants are encouraged to carry the following items:
WATER: 2-3+ liters recommended.
FOOD: Adequate and appropriate food for a full day of climbing.
CLOTHING: Dress in clothing appropriate for the season. Layers are highly recommended.
RAIN/WIND LAYER: Carry a rain layer that can also be used for wind protection.
WARM LAYER: Always have a warm layer in your pack.
LIGHT: Carry a headlamp and extra batteries.
FIRST AID KIT: Carry a fully stocked first aid kit equipped with large bandages and gauze.
TOILET KIT: Carry a trowel, toilet paper and resealable plastic bag to hold waste.
OUTSIDE ETHICS
Members should be stewards of the areas where we climb and adhere to these outside ethics:
Abide by rules specific to the jurisdictional area where you are climbing.
Minimize impact by staying on existing trails when possible.
Leave trails, climbing areas and campgrounds in a better condition than you found them.
Use a wag bag and carry out human waste.
Avoid using the toilet at the base of climbing routes or where climbers congregate.
Carry out trash, including nut shells, apple cores, orange, and banana peels.
Extinguish campfires completely by smothering ashes with water and dirt.
Respect private property.